Restaurants

An air of Dickensian mystery hangs about this place overlooking the moored-up barges close to the Thames. The dated decor is a mix of Provence, nautical kitsch and excruciatingly bad 1980s artwork. Together with the geographically promiscuous menu, it suggests an owner desperately seeking distinctiveness but not quite sure how to achieve it. In the event, dining here was a strange, disappointing experience. Neither was it cheap, with 30-day-aged sirloin steak and chips selling at a pricey £22.50, and our bill marked with the surprising and petty addendum of ‘2 bread and butter £2’. A starter of goat’s cheese crostini was bland, ‘Elizabeth David’s lamb and aubergine casserole’ was homely but seemed overpriced at £17, while an otherwise acceptable fish stew was accompanied, bizarrely, with green salad. Only the interesting and good-value wine list, including an excellent Loire house red, and a rustic starter of rabbit terrine, hit the spot. Most damning of all is the fact that on a Friday night the restaurant was only a quarter full.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009