Restaurants

The glass front at Bakko opens up on to noisy Muswell Hill Broadway in warm weather. Of late, new ‘Mediterranean’ dishes have appeared on the clearly explained menu, and most customers now seem to be older, non-Turkish diners. A starter of patlıcan salad was pleasant but bland, lacking the smoky heartiness that characterises this dish at its best – an odd slip for a restaurant that continually announces its peasant origins. Photos of Kurdish peasants at work still adorn the walls, along with Kurdish artefacts (‘bakko’ is a Kurdish term for ‘village elder’). A main course of íncik came with a good chunk of lamb knuckle, the meat almost falling off the bone. The accompanying vegetables (carrots, peppers and new potatoes) were beautifully cooked too. Unfortunately the rice, served with traditional pasta strands, was slightly overdone. The pudding menu features standard Turkish desserts and such European favourites as gateaux. Staff were helpful and attentive. Bakko remains popular and worth visiting, but appears to have lost its culinary direction somewhat.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008