Restaurants

‘Bakko’ is a Kurdish term for ‘village elder’ and this otherwise modern-looking restaurant has many Kurdish artefacts on its walls. In fine weather, the glass front opens up on to noisy Muswell Hill Broadway. Over recent years the restaurant has tried a couple of new directions – but to our eyes, a new bar-like section at the front, complete with settee and a TV playing music videos, doesn’t improve the ambience. Aspects of the menu are drifting away from the Kurdish origins, though you’ll also find new Kurdish and Turkish dishes among the more general Mediterranean fare. The best of the food here is good. As a starter, three long sigara börek were served with a small dish of houmous. Next, kuzu shish included large chunks of succulent grilled lamb, basmati rice and a pungent chilli sauce. A dessert trolley near the entrance tempted with a range of western puddings as well as such Turkish standards as baklava. Staff were pleasantly chatty and outgoing throughout our meal. Bakko deserves a visit.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009