Restaurants

A curates egg, the Laughing Gravy. Before it fell into new hands in 2006, its USP was the unselfconsciously quirky decor, the carefully delineated spaces for drinking and eating, and the friendly service. It was one of Londons most romantic restaurants, and the food wasnt the reason you returned. Now, much of the clutter has been cleared away although the wooden figurines of Laurel and Hardy, whose short film Laughing Gravy inspired the name, remain and the drinking and eating areas have morphed into one unmemorable space. Whats more, the service on our visit was shocking (premature bills, incorrect orders and much else besides). However, the food was serious, finally doing justice to prices that have always been inflated. The signature bison tournedo was massively improved from previous incarnations, and the accompanying vodka raspberry and Tabasco sauce was surprisingly successful, neither overpowering the bison nor being cowed by it. Starters were similarly bold (Vietnamese crisp-fried frogs legs, for instance). If youre wary of novelty, fear not: a regular fillet steak with brandy pepper sauce was just so. Bonus points for the excellent drinks: Barbar Honey Ale, St Peters Organic Ale and Peroni on tap.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008