Restaurants

Now under the same ownership as the Lansdowne and recently refurbed, the Fox is a fine-looking establishment, but on a Friday night you might not notice. Getting to the dining room upstairs requires determination; the bar is packed with braying suits. Once settled at a chunky wooden table, you can admire your surroundings. Lighting is a mix of candelabras, fringed standard lamps and flickering candles that highlight a chocolatey aubergine ceiling and a lovely wooden dumbwaiter. Specials included squid on pea purée: slightly charred but delicious. Another was roast onglet (hanger steak) with chips and aïoli, but we opted for a perfectly seasoned guinea fowl, accompanied by a few interesting starters: pollack brandade (slightly undersalted) was served with soft-boiled duck egg; smoked herring salad with beetroot and horseradish was moreish; broccoli in caper sauce was sharp and tasty (but more side dish than starter). The wine list is strong and reasonably priced, with a glass of malbec for £3.95, a Corbières for £4.20. Bombardier plus a regularly changing guest are on draught. Service was charming, attentive and professional. Our waiter didn’t bat an eyelid when a group ordered ‘sambucas all round’ for aperitifs.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008