Restaurants

As a well-known couple brushed by our table on their way out of this smart, if slightly austere, subterranean restaurant, the lady, clearly well satisfied by her dinner, turned to us. With a knowing wink, she declared ‘it’s rather good here, isn’t it?’ then vanished into the night. She’s right; the food is very good indeed. It’s classic, unembellished Spanish tapas. The ingredients are first-rate, the cooking is precise. Pulpo a la gallega was delicious, super-soft octopus dressed in olive oil and paprika. Clams with bacon and sherry was no more, no less, but very moreish. Meat was tasty and succulent; vegetables perfectly al dente. The catch is the prices, which are just too bloated for such unerringly simple food. There’s no alchemy in this kind of cooking, and you can eat tapas just as good for half the price elsewhere. The cheapest Rioja is £24. So, Fino is one for expense accounts – something most people have already figured out, judging by the number of suits in attendance. Buoyed by Fino’s success, owners (and brothers) Sam and Eddie Hart have opened a new tapas bar in Soho, Barrafina .

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008