Restaurants

Standing out among a row of shabby shops, O Moinho is a well-maintained family-run restaurant. On a sunny afternoon, wind-protected pavement seating had tempted many punters outside, but we were enticed by the Portuguese kitsch interior. A traditional white and blue tiled mural of a windmill (moinho) is teamed with football shirts, signed photos of Portuguese singers and a sparkling marble bar. We skipped starters, taking advantage of the complimentary crusty bread, cheese, mixed olives and fish pâté. There’s a variety of main courses, including pizzas and pastas, as well as the expected fish, seafood and meat dishes. We kept our meal traditional, ordering salt cod with ham and port (bacalhau à transmontana), which arrived with a sad piece of crispy ham sandwiched inside a chunk of overcooked cod. A mixed fish and vegetable kebab was far more impressive, featuring king prawns nearly as big as lobsters, and salmon, squid and cod which were all tender and flavoursome. The wine list is extensive, but the ‘sommelier’s choice’ section seems out of place, with bottles costing around £100. Otherwise, this is a thoroughly reasonable restaurant.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008