Restaurants

Almost hidden away off Islington’s Upper Street, Metrogusto couldn’t be more removed from the tired image of the neighbourhood trattoria that still manages to survive in London. The decor is downright wacky, with surrealist-inspired paintings and curious props scattered around the main dining area. The cooking, which bills itself as ‘progressive’, is so innovative it verges on the playful, as shown by a starter of Tuscan ham with honey-scented grilled banana. Chef Antonio Di Salvo’s concoctions may sound unlikely, almost offputting, but they rarely fail to hit the mark. The pan-fried duck breast with plum and Campari sauce shouldn’t be missed, if available, along with at least one choice from the remarkable dessert menu, featuring quirky ice-cream flavours like goat’s cheese and rosemary. The wine list is equally edgy and features a few lesser-known whites from the Alto Adige region, near the Austrian border, which are worth sampling. Several bins are available by the glass or in half bottles. With its efficient, pleasant service and affordable prices, Metrogusto is a real treasure.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009