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Edera has a highly appealing interior, modern yet soothing, but dare we suggest the restaurant is suffering from a touch of arrogance? There was no bargain lunch menu, yet in this wealthy part of town only four or five tables were occupied on our visit. Starters comprise mainly deli items and salads, and theres a long list of pastas. Sardinian flourishes can be found in the use of malloreddus and fregola pastas, and bottarga. Risotto of the day was a creamy broad bean version. Tuna carpaccio, slightly overpowered by a strong-tasting olive oil, contained very fresh, succulent fish served with squeaky green beans and semi-dried tomatoes. Monkfish strips came in a tomato sauce with crunchy nuggets of celery (nicer than it sounds) though the jury is out on the success of green olive mash. Best not to dally with creativity when the basics arent right; our sea bass was cooked over too high a heat, resulting in an almost charred skin and underdone centre and the accompanying pinwheel of dry courgettes needed their pesto sauce garnish for moistness. We left half of a thick, woolly, berry panna cotta dessert. And we had trouble attracting the staff. More consistency is needed.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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