Restaurants

This small hotel and restaurant in a former pub building has been taken over by Paul Merrett, who is familiar to BBC TV audiences through his appearances on shows such as Ever Wondered About Food.Long an unpretentious haven of good food for wealthy locals and families, the Victoria still has its huge conservatory dining room and a large outdoor garden, but Merrett and business partner Greg Bellamy have added a barbecue area. The food is often simple, but done well – such as in ribeye steak with triple-cooked chips and béarnaise, ham hock and foie gras terrine, or bread and butter pudding. Among the more adventurous dishes are gravadlax served with beetroot sorbet, and bramley apple samosas with greek yoghurt and chilli ice-cream. The bar could do with a more interesting range of beers; the international wine list, which has been prepared by Olly Smith, another aspiring TV ‘personality’, features around 35 bottles including three rosés. While concessions should be made for early days, on our visit and on trying to book, staff showed a lack of experience and professionalism.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009