Restaurants

Several years ago, the opening of Lots Road Pub & Dining Room marked a significant departure. A plucky new pubco (the Spirit Group) entered the market and successfully mimicked the winning formula of independent, chef-run gastropubs by giving the resident chef almost free rein in the kitchen. Several years on, Lots Road is still pulling in immaculately coiffed Fulham folk and is still an appealing and friendly gastropub, but on our most recent visit we felt standards had slipped. The new team in charge were running a British food festival, so we were able to tuck in to the likes of black pudding, woodpigeon breast, confit lamb shoulder and seared scallops. Corners were cut, though: advertised ‘fennel purée’ with the scallops was the same mashed potato as served with the lamb shoulder, where it was incorrectly described as Scottish dish clapshot (if this ‘clapshot’ had any of the requisite swede in it, then call us neeps). Prices are still fair for this part of town, and the selection of guest ales was impressive: Tanglefoot, Spitfire and Old Speckled Hen. Most of our fellow diners seemed more keen on the smart wine list, with sparkling wines selling particularly well.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008