Restaurants

It was the mid 1980s when Sally Clarke, inspired by her experiences dining at Chez Panisse in California, brought something fresh, light and sunny to a dour and grey London. A trailblazer she certainly was, but the road she travels today now seems familiar. The parquet floor, cane chairs and white tablecloths don’t make for a cutting-edge environment, but it is a pleasing one – civilised, bright and calm. There’s a basement area too, which is often in. The waiting staff have a way of making everyone feel like a regular. Ingredients have always been at the heart of things here, and a fine chargrilled Welsh lamb chump chop was as good as it gets (‘proper’ flavour, full of depth, tender), and served with a rich wine gravy and mash. The preceding buffalo mozzarella, chive and chervil risotto balls were accomplished and the dessert (soft pistachio meringue with spring rhubarb), although overloaded with cream, showed a good balance of sweet and sharp. Incidentals are spot-on, such as the fantastic bread: as you’d expect, as it comes from Clarke’s own highly successful bakery. The wine list contains many Californian gems, but doesn’t ignore the rest of the world.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009