Restaurants

Changes at Fez since our last visit mean that the upstairs room now has a slightly barn-like feel with heavy wooden tables in serried ranks against the walls, rather than the previous intimate arrangement with decorative ironwork furniture. Is the restaurant becoming more of a fuelling stop for the small disco bar downstairs? The menu has been watered down to include many more international dishes, but there's still a reasonable range of Moroccan fare, though fewer choices than before. Zaalouk (served warm here) was garlicky and packed quite a punch with rich chilli undertones; light crispy briouat (pastry) came stuffed with goat's cheese; couscous was served as a one-plate dish with no extra broth or harissa to add, and was consequently a touch too dry. That said, tender well-cooked lamb and vibrantly spiced merguez sitting atop juicy squash, courgettes, carrots and chickpeas was a very tasty dish indeed. Finishing with fragrant mint tea, we were left satisfied by the all-round experience.

Time Out Cheap Eats in London Guide 2007