Restaurants

In an unpromising spot opposite a dodgy-looking pub and a police station, Rasputin is full of surprises. The attractive large blue room (with photos of the Russian royal family, portraits of Rasputin and other arty objets) was terribly quiet. We were soon in conversation with the delightful chatty Montenegrin owner and her Croatian husband (who used to cater for Yugoslavian Embassy events), over orahovac (green-walnut vodka) and a complimentary mound of pickled vegetables. Russian, Polish, Ukrainian and Balkan dishes are on the menu, including good starters such as borscht (Ukrainian-style with veg and sour cream), moistly stuffed pelmeni and light smoked salmon blinis with sour cream and dill. We then hazarded hearty mains of peppers stuffed with rice, a honey-marinated fillet of salmon and a somewhat overfried schnytzel po evropeiskii, compromised by tired vegetables: greasy fried potatoes with onions, carrots and red cabbage. Clean-tasting Baltika lager, from an intriguing drinks list, made an admirable accompaniment. We ended with more complimentary vodkas and warm embraces from our hostess. The world seemed a better place. Note thats its only open for dinner.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008