Restaurants

Despite now being owned by a big hotel group, this venerable Soho institution retains a certain intimacy and old-school charm that’s rare in London. From higgledy-piggledy shelves of political biographies to rich wood-panelled walls lovingly laden with caricatures of Westminster worthies, it oozes character. The presiding (Polish, rather than Hungarian) maître d’ reminds us of a Bond-style butler; almost lugubriously polite, but with a wry sense of humour, he delights in regaling diners with tales of the restaurant’s past glories. Try some lesser-known Hungarian wines (beyond the Tokajis and Bulls Bloods). We loved our crisp white Kemendy zenit. Hungarian friends were full of approval on our most recent visit, with special praise for the authenticity of the cold, outrageously creamy cherry soup, and pancakes stuffed with goulash then breadcrumbed and deep-fried. Delicate fish dumplings in a light sauce spiked with dill (not so typically Hungarian), and a robust main of beef medallions with hot paprika-braised onions and peppers, also went down a treat. Portions are generous, but the sweet-toothed will find it hard to resist walnut pancakes or richly chocolatey dobosz torta. A slice of living history.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009