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Morgan M

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489 Liverpool Road
N7 8NS Map
Holloway
020 7609 3560
www.morganm.com

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Category: French
Travel: Highbury & Islington tube/rail
Lunch served noon-2.30pm Wed-Fri, Sun. Dinner served 7-10pm Tue-Sat
Set lunch £19.50 2 courses, £23.50 3 courses. Set dinner £34 3 courses. Set meal £36 (vegetarian), £43 (non-vegetarian) tasting menu
Credit cards: DC, MC, V

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Morgan M

Critic's Choice

The real deal. After so many overhyped but essentially ordinary restaurants, it’s a delight to find one that really delivers. Morgan Meunier’s cooking is supremely skilful; painstakingly intricate but without any just-to-impress gestures, producing multiple layers of subtle flavours. As in any first-cru French restaurant, the delicacies begin with the extras – on our visit, an appetiser of wonderfully fragrant beetroot soup (no relation whatsoever to borscht) with roquefort mousse. We could have stayed to contemplate that, but moved on to earthy foie gras and artichoke terrine, and perfect-quality seared tuna with a gorgeous, genuinely innovative red pepper sorbet. Every course produced unannounced delights: sea bass arrived with an elusively sweet saffron sauce, fillet of veal with a woody taste of morels. And the £34 set dinner (an extraordinary bargain) comprises three courses, so you carry on to the irresistible desserts, such as the chocolate platter with a Valrhona sorbet. Meunier is also known for his vegetarian creations, and there’s an all-vegetarian menu. The wine list is on a par with the food, and service is utterly charming. An experience that stays in the mind, and lures you to return.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008

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Services:

Booking: Booking essential
Child facilities: Babies and children admitted (lunch)
Dress code: smart casual
Function room: Separate room for parties, seats 12
Takeaway service: Vegetarian menu


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Latest user reviews

Went to Morgan M for their 20 pounds for 2 courses set weekday menu (jan 08), and wow were we bedazzled by both the service and food. I had this melt in your mouth fried foie gras on brioche as a starter, and an amazing venison main dish. Each dish had numerous components, and despite the... [More]
Anonymous  Feb 27 2008

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