Restaurants

This very personal operation – Morgan Meunier is the chef patron and the room feels like the dining room of his home – is one to cherish as a bastion of individuality in a corporate world. Not that we like it merely on principle: the food is both good and well-priced. Personal doesn’t mean casual: service is formal and black-suited, presentation ritually formal, and the room restrained and simple in decor. The menu (set only) offers three courses with a choice of meat or fish, with amuses-gueules (of which we particularly commend a stunning beetroot velouté with gorgonzola cream). Flavours are intense and ingredients first quality in expertly rendered dishes that are perhaps one twist too far towards the fussy, by current tastes. Stand-outs on our recent visit were a foie gras pâté layered with almonds and jelly, veal with aerosol horseradish foam, and raspberry soufflé. The restaurant is best suited to couples and quiet groups; with no music and a hushed respectful atmosphere, you can feel a bit self-conscious. Mr Meunier generally comes out of the kitchen to chat with diners, adding to the intimate feel.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009