Restaurants

A thriving bar (with its own brisk menu) occupies the main two rooms at this established Battersea Rise site: here you can savour wines by the glass in front of the spectacularly mirrored bar or on the small front patio, while catching up with the latest sports on TV. The restaurant occupies a long, narrow room to one side. It has its own bar, frenchified memorabilia on the walls and white tablecloths on the close-packed tables. Generally, the food is good enough, but rarely better than that. A starter of moules marinière was fresh but unexciting; the version with cream was better. French onion soup was competent enough, but lacked punch. Of the main courses, a succulent steak frites was the star, but steak tartare had little spice or flavour. And for dessert, a rather tired chocolate mousse was trumped by the far creamier, fresher crème brûlée. We had the impression that the place was just coasting, a feeling reinforced by erratic service. The substantial wine list is very French and worth exploring; although you may choose to do that in the bar.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008