Restaurants

This is the third of Jan Woroniecki’s restaurants, though the others (Baltic, Wódka) are Polish rather than French. The single room is attractive, with a subuded colour scheme of maroon, grey and brown, and atmospheric low lighting, including a curtain of twinkling fairy lights in one window. The front terrace is a bonus, despite the distinctly uncomfortable low-slung canvas chairs, and was full on our visit. The menu reads a treat, promising plenty of strong, earthy flavours (clam and bean stew with chorizo, devilled lamb’s kidneys, confit pig’s head with pickled cabbages, bouillabaisse). Usefully, half a dozen dishes are available in starter or main course sizes, though vegetarians don’t get much choice. Execution doesn’t match expectation, however. Good to see herring roe on the menu (as a starter), but it was served on tough toast and swamped by a dressing of buerre noisette and capers. A smilar lack of finesse affected most of our dishes, especially a main of hake and clams in a far too oily sauce (almost a soup); better were a tangy steak tartare starter and a main of nicely cooked lamb on a bed of aubergine and shallots. Portions are big. Plus points for the all-French wine list and capable staff, but we’d like a more delicacte hand in the kitchen.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008