Restaurants

Some of the old get up and go seems to have got up and left here. Weekday evenings have the whiff of convenience about them, with pubby grub casually presented to groups of jovial colleagues. The party only arrives come the weekend, when DJs crank it up with easy tunes (from the 1970s and onwards) and a clubbier crowd lets loose in the adjoining bar. Once a haunt of Tracey Emin and the Britart posse, Vics still prides itself on a laid-back style. Service is informal, the burnished walls, high ceiling and torch-style uplighters are more characterful than much of the competition. Despite protestations to the contrary, however, the starchy tablecloths suggest that (like the Emins of this world) Vics has become a little remote from the underground vibe. To eat well, stick to the sensible-sounding likes of ham, split pea and vegetable soup; venison steak with mash and braised shallots; or porcini ravioli with cream, rocket and parmesan. Occasionally, a pairing (such as duck breast with stir-fried vegetables) tastes a bit too student cookbook. Fine up to a point, but Vics needs to get its groove back.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008