Restaurants

Very much at the restaurant end of the gastropub spectrum, the Ebury occupies a prominent corner site where Victoria coach station gives way to a swankier neighbourhood. A handsome ground-floor bar and restaurant is furnished in wood and dark leather, lightened by white walls and huge windows; upstairs is a more formal dining room. Wine and cocktails are to the fore, though you can get a pint of London Pride. The menu aspires to more than gastropub staples too – not always successfully, as demonstrated by an over-rich herb risotto, and an unctuous spiced pork belly with mashed potatoes, sautéed black pudding and star anise (it wasn’t very spicy and we couldn’t spot the black pudding). Much better were a delightfully fresh pea mousse with pea shoots and truffle dressing, and a moreish roast cod with puy lentils. Pricing is a concern; side orders are £3.50 apiece, and while white and dark chocolate mousse with orange and kumquat salad was good, it cost £5.50, like all the desserts. Presumably locals can happily swallow these prices, but given the variable quality, we weren’t so sanguine. At the end of 2006 the Ebury was bought by Carlo Spetale, who also owns the Modern European Notting Hill Brasserie; one of his innovations has been the introduction of jazz evenings.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008