Restaurants

A handsome pub (apart from the dingy ‘outside’ room sandwiched between bar and beer garden), the Coach & Horses does its best to appeal to drinkers and diners. There are several real ales, and the wood-panelled and etched-glass interior isn’t too jazzed up, but there’s also a great wine list (with many by the glass) and a dab hand in the kitchen. Don’t expect a restaurant setting – plenty of tables are occupied by drinkers, a crowd gathers by the pavement tables in warm weather, and service comes in jeans and T-shirt. Portions are big; order a bar snack, such as chips and aïoli and some of the fabulous bread, and you may decide that’s enough. Which would be a shame: squid salad with rocket and baby plum tomatoes stuffed with chorizo was a delightfully inventive and satisfying take on familiar ingredients. Confit duck leg with lentils and morcilla, with a side of buttery greens, was similarly enjoyable: so too a pair of haddock fish cakes. Typical last courses are English cheeses or Valrhona chocolate cake with rhubarb compote. Though not a venue for that special date, the Coach & Horses does its own thing very competently.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009