Restaurants

Fancy design has never been the order of the day at the Coach & Horses, but recently part of the outdoor area has been converted into a dining room, and the garden now has only four tables. A large group of friends made a beeline there, leaving the rather plain white and brown dining area to couples and pairs of work colleagues. We were stuck listening to overbearing academic types who fancied themselves in the glamorous world of the media (the Guardian’s offices are nearby). The menu is dominated by French and British country cooking: a juicy pink duck breast with sautéed vegetables or braised ox cheek might be preceded by, say, rabbit rillettes, while desserts could include chocolate tart, rhubarb mess and assorted ice-creams. Sourcing quality meat is a concern here and the rare breeds, such as our Gloucester Old Spot chop, come from Long Ghyll Farms in Lancashire. Over the past five years the C&H’s chips have acquired quite a reputation, served with a powerful aïoli loaded with crushed garlic (the taste lingers along with the memories). Service was exceptionally sweet, and staff kept us well supplied with large glasses of decent red and rosé: unusually, the house wines are not the cheapest on the list. The beer is fine too, with the likes of Adnams, London Pride and Timothy Taylor.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008