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For a little while, London’s grande dame of quality vegetarian cuisine lost its balance, but we’re pleased to report the Gate is back to its best. The elevated, airy attic above a picturesque courtyard is a joy in daylight, and the atmosphere transforms to cosiness when staff come round with gem-coloured candles for each table. All our food was brimming with interesting textures, tastes and touches. A courgette flower stuffed with sweet potato and pine nuts had been coated in a fragile, crispy beer batter and was complemented by a silky lemon aïoli. Sweet, crunchy, thai salad was a riot of green mango, paw-paw, mouli, baby corn and crushed peanuts. Root vegetable rotolo featured a variety of seasonal veg, each retaining its distinctiveness. The show-stealer, however, was an artfully presented aubergine balanced vertically and stuffed with okra soldiers; it came with a guacamole and chipotle salsa that didn’t scrimp on the heat or garlic. To follow, hazelnut crème brûlée was too cloying, and more praline than crème. Staff are attentive. The smart-casual customers, from silver foxes to young sophisticates, filled the Gate to near capacity – not bad for a Monday night.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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Walking into the entrance of a church is a strange experience when looking for a restaurant. Hidden just behind the Hammersmith Apollo The Gate offers vegetarians a delightful option in a sea of restaurant options. The rather bland walls, devoid of any artwork, did not complement the otherwise colourful experience.
The menu was limited to half a dozen starters and mains, but these offerings all had character and complementary ingredients. The menu consisted of many deconstructed favourites such as their Mexican plate, a fancy nacho dish, and their lasagne, a stack of roasted vegetables surrounded by a creamy watercress sauce. Along side these simple yet pleasing dishes were a few Asian inspired creations, using varied spices and textures to create masterful dishes.
The wine menu, although not extensive, offered a good range of both light and full-bodied wines - the French bottle of red we chose worked well with the dishes. The presentation of all the food was exceptional – the only thing letting this restaurant down was the stark vast walls which in this already imposing church space added nothing to the ambience.