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Burlington Road has a reputation for authentic Korean food, but Han Kook is still an unexpected find amid the builders merchants and furniture shops. Inside, a former industrial space has been reinvented as a mock-up of dynastic Korea, with fretwork partitions, paper screens and a raised stage with low tables and truncated, legless chairs. There are also conventional tables for those who havent mastered the art of eating cross-legged. An aquarium houses live lobsters, abalones and turbot, used for fresh sashimi and spicy seafood stews. Barbecues are prepared on portable hotplates; lettuce and denjang (bean paste) for wrapping are included in the price. The menu gives dish names only in Korean, with brief descriptions in English. Service was prompt on our visit. Neng myun (cold buckwheat noodles) arrived within seconds, rolled into grey nests with a chilled soy-based soup for dipping and a dollop of fiery wasabi paste on the side. The fish cheon was one of the best weve tasted: cubes of fish with marvellous flavour and texture, and a delicious soy and chilli dip. Things are quiet at lunchtimes, but get busier in the evenings.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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