Restaurants

Set in the stately surrounds of Claridge’s hotel, this is one of London’s leading culinary attractions, and with good reason. Although Gordon Ramsay is the drawcard, it’s his right-hand man Mark Sargeant who is credited with maintaining outstanding quality and excellence in the kitchen. The beautiful interior reflects the building’s art deco heritage with gracious restraint; soft warm colours, abundant flower displays, weighty drapes and crisp table-linen set the scene for surprisingly relaxed dining. On a bustling Saturday afternoon every table was filled with diners: romancing couples, celebrating families and well-heeled food lovers. Not once did the service miss a beat – professional, formal and suitably friendly throughout. Of the first courses, we were especially taken with a salad of purple-hued pata negra ham tossed with herby micro leaves (great for bursts of intense flavour). What really scored was the addition of just enough orange segments, dabs of goat’s curd, and crunchy hazelnuts to harmonise flavours. Poached salmon fillet had an alluring melt-in-the-mouth texture, and was classically paired with lemon butter sauce. Impeccably cooked guinea fowl breast was another winner; although simply presented, it was complemented by a delicious, indulgent helping of smoked potato purée, and a small ladleful of creamy, thyme-scented sauce. A crisp-skinned fillet of sea trout made a fabulous partner with tender-grained barley and cep risotto, its richness cut with sweet braised red cabbage on the side. Top marks to desserts: splendid passion-fruit crème brûlée sat on a crumbly pistachio biscuit, crowned with darkly inviting chocolate sorbet. It’s easy to be daunted by the sizeable wine list, and as the selections don’t come cheap, it’s worth asking for guidance. This is a world-class restaurant that lives up to its reputation.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009