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Ozu
Big Ben to the left, the London Eye to the right, assorted river traffic cruising by in between – a sure-fire location for any restaurant, you’d think. Unfortunately, in spite of a large banner on Queen’s Walk, Ozu is tricky to spot; and once you have made it inside, great chunks of grade II-listed masonry break up what should be a glorious panorama. The interior is a handsome mix of lightened original wood panelling, corniced ceiling and curvaceous white ventilation ducts; the latter efficiently remove smoke and vapour from the central charcoal grill and hotplate. However, the restaurant has shrunk since its move (in 2006) from the back to the front of County Hall, and so has the menu. This is now a modest collection of kobachi (starters, from which okra with pickled plum paste and fish flakes stood out), sushi, sashimi, sumibiyaki grills (charcoal-grilled dishes including great lamb and so-so squid) and teppanyaki. There’s no faulting the ingredients used here, and they are handled competently, but this dining room – with an admittedly stunning view – is a little high on prices and low on atmosphere.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
Services:
Booking: Booking advisable
Child facilities: Babies and children welcome: high chair
Disabled: toilet (in County Hall)
Takeaway service: Vegetarian menu
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