Restaurants

This good, solid, neighbourhood all-rounder with its homely noren fabrics, chipped paint on the floorboards and haphazard knick-knackery on the walls serves good, solid, neighbourhood food (well, it would do if its neighbourhood was a Tokyo suburb). The main menu competently covers sushi, sashimi and the three Ts (tempura, teriyaki and tonkatsu), while the specials board springs no surprises; black cod in miso, and grilled squid was as rarefied as it got on our most recent visit. However, salmon sashimi elicited an ooh when it arrived nestled next to a crystal-clear iceberg like a family of orange, polar-dwelling seals. Chicken gyoza, perfectly formed and seared-steamed, ranked with the best in London. Sedate at lunchtime, bustling on weekend evenings, Tokiya opened in 2000 but doesnt look a day under 20. However, the fish is fresh, the noodle stock just right and the service welcoming. What decor lacks in quality it makes up for in quirkiness; look out for the giant plastic ebi nigiri inside the front door.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008