Restaurants

With just a dozen tables, Tokiya is a bijou place with a sombre, monochrome look. Tables are painted black, the floor and walls off-white. The sushi chef works behind a small bar at the back, turning out a varied array. On our visit, the nigiri options were somewhat limited and the toro (tuna belly), despite being that day’s recommended fish, was tough and fibrous. In contrast, yellowtail sashimi was exemplary. We had difficulty choosing from the long list of enticing maki, finally settling on the neat, umami-rich natto (fermented soybean) rolls. Classics such as agedashidofu and seaweed salad are competently done and portions are quite generous. Daily specials are chalked on a board. We noticed that the now-ubiquitous black cod with miso was offered, at the Mayfair price of £18 – cheeky for such humble surroundings. Service is polite and helpful, but the drinks list (a small selection of uninspiring beer, wine and saké) could do with a boost. Opening times can be erratic, so ring ahead first.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009