Restaurants

The front of Kazans is divided into a restaurant and a separate bar, both looking on to the street. Its walls are stencilled with patterns and decorated with fascinating family photos from 1960s Turkey. Further back, there’s less light, so tables are decorated with coloured glass lanterns. Starters come in big portions. Fava bean (broad bean) purée tasted fresh and flavoursome, though the texture was a little rough, but patlıcan salata (smoky aubergine purée with lemon) was exemplary. More adventurous daily specials have started to crop up on the menu recently, such as shashlik, or lamb wrapped in pastrami. We ordered izgara tavuk, translated here as piri-piri chicken. A whole small chicken marinated in white wine and chilli arrived; it was marvellously spicy. Meanwhile, loin of lamb came accompanied by an interesting combination of rocket and mashed sweet potato. Kazans was formerly reticent about its Turkishness. Having ‘come out’ and built a solid menu, it seems to feel the need to go further, but we reckon the new options aren’t as accomplished as the core menu.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008