Restaurants

This popular Brixton spot has a reputation for tasty, well-priced Caribbean food. But while the cost remained reasonable, a recent meal wasnt as satisfying as in the past. Although Bamboulas food is still flavourful, there no longer appears to be as much passion, imagination or attention to detail in the kitchen. There were problems with both presentation and execution. For example, a portion of curried goat (excellent) came on a cold plate with a cold portion of Caribbean salad; the salad itself was an uninspiring combination of shredded iceberg lettuce, cabbage and sliced tomatoes. The exotically named Ring of Nubian Queen (saltfish and red beans in a coconut sauce with banana chips) failed to live up to its exciting billing, the saltfish being bland. The small restaurant (20 or so seats) was full on a Friday night, which meant abrupt service from a clearly stretched two-person waiting team. Bamboula was once a real beacon for Caribbean cuisine and could be again, but there needs to be a rethink to resurrect that old glory.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008