Restaurants

‘If it ain’t broke…’ might be the motto at this popular local. Every night (bar Monday and Sunday) the Ark starts to fill as soon as its doors open. There’s no booking, so arriving early guarantees a table, whereas late-comers must wait at the bar until one becomes free. A daily changing menu is based on whatever the market has to offer, so, together with the main menu, gives plenty of options over which to dither. Dublin rock oysters were a no-brainer: wonderfully fresh and creamy. For mains? Perfectly cooked fried cod and chips, or ‘dish of the day’: haddock on a pile of champ. Both, with a side of mushy peas, proved to be excellent choices. Desserts are strictly old school: the apple sponge was a delicious combo of sponge, sweet apple and custard; fresh fruit pavlova was a little light on fruit, but what little there was married well with the sweet, crumbly meringue and cream. Drinkers are well catered for too, with beers (bottled and draught) and a short, well-priced wine list – a Battistina Gavi (£15) was a perfectly quaffable choice. Service was friendly and efficient.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009