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Latium, purveyor of modern Italian cooking, resides in a comfortable space that has a dimly lit, romantic glow at dinnertime. What’s more, prices are reasonable. On our most recent visit, we enjoyed some eye-poppingly wonderful dishes. Of the main courses, roast Gressingham duck with lentils, endive timbale and spinach, and slow-roasted belly of pork with Savoy cabbage, baby leeks and balsamic vinegar showed ambition and delivered on flavour. Sadly, our choice from the special list of ravioli dishes was terrible: leathery pasta stuffed with wild mushrooms, served with tasteless snails and a tomato sauce. When the waiter enquired about our uneaten dish, our feedback was handled ungraciously, casting a pall over what would otherwise have been a great meal, competently served. The succinct wine list is of high quality, with plenty of choice between £20 and £30. On that basis, we’re happy to recommend Latium – as long as you have some good luck choosing the dishes.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009
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I'm a tall, educated, northern man with a bit grit and a lot charm. I enjoy conversation and ideas, and am always up to try new experiences. Not...
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Very disappointing experience. My starter paired a terrine with a disgustingly sweet concoction described as a 'fruit mustard'. When questioned the maitre d' noted that 'mustard' was not an accurate translation and I cannot imagine what 'inspired' the chef to set a rather anodyne dish alongside something so overpowering. My partner skipped the starter and was happy with her pasta dish, but my palate never recovered and I found my own seafood ravioli dish bland and uninspiring. We both found our mains gastronomically unchallenging to say the least (hers a fish dish sullied by an omnipresent cheese sauce; mine a dull version of what one would have thought a safe bet: Ossobuco). It's been a while since I was so glad to leave a restaurant.
4 of us tried a wide variety of beautifully presented dishes composed of seasonal ingredients, with subtle and well balanced flavours. One or two were over-salted and too elaborate, we thought.
The staff made persistent efforts to persuade us to drink more alcohol and coffees than we wanted. Apparently the management expects this.
Not sure we would return.