Restaurants

Latium performs the difficult balancing act of suiting business lunches as readily as romantic dinners. Elegantly padded chairs and modern abstract art strike a relaxing note, though the spacious tables can also generate a bit of buzz. The main menu is supplemented by a special ravioli section offering several more choices. Portions, in general, are modest. Oxtail ravioli was tepid and chewy, but its silky celery sauce and sticky jus were a treat. A plate of crab tortelloni with rocket was pretty and delicious yet too much like a salad. Sea bass carpaccio with blood orange salad was a first-class contrast of tangy citrus, soft fish and crunchy greens. The wine list features a decent choice of half bottles and wines by the glass, and iced tap water was replenished throughout the meal. Desserts such as candied artichoke with ricotta are easy to skip when a plate of exquisite chocolate truffles is in the offing. Included extras such as these and the bodacious canapés and breads (which arrive soon after ordering), make the final bill more appealing – when you can get it. Service, although gracious and attentive during the meal, fell away at bill time.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008