Restaurants

Located in the redevelopment of the Duke of York’s barracks on the King’s Road, Manicomio’s set-up includes an Italian deli and large terrace – although sadly (or blessedly, according to taste) this doesn’t front on the road. Inside, red leather banquettes against exposed brick walls give a chic but cosy atmosphere. Service is a mix of pleasant and slightly aloof. The menu is shortish, but full of interesting ingredients, like puntarella (a wild dandelion/chicory cross) and cime di rapa (turnip greens). Starters include intriguing twists on standards, like buffalo mozzarella salad with roasted peppers and grilled aubergine, a quite superb warm octopus salad with potatoes, lime leaves, chilli and capers, and a generous platter of delicious Parma ham with pears and ubriaco – the sweet-spicy unpasteurised cheese from Lombardy a revelation. Main courses were along more familiar lines, but did make a feature of incorporating some of the novel veg – a practice many Italian restaurants could do with adopting. Gutsy tarragon-stuffed guinea fowl wrapped in prosciutto was served with cime de rapa, and meltingly tender lamb shanks with spinach and chickpea purée.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009