Restaurants

The Barnes faithful have kept Sonny’s thriving for almost a quarter of a century. It’s part of a trio of neighbourhood restaurants run by Rebecca Mascarenhas, including the Phoenix and 11 Abingdon Road . The white-painted back room with its glass-brick wall is more relaxed than the brighter front area, though the low ceiling means it can be noisy. The eclectic artworks should provide a talking point if conversation flags. There’s much to like: staff are efficient and amenable, the wine list is pleasing, the set menus are nicely priced. But something was amiss with the food on our last visit. The ratio of (overcooked) exterior to interior was awry on our mini double-baked cheese soufflé, and the creamed leeks on the side were cloying. Roast fillet of Atlantic cod was little better, the fish mushy, and the accompanying compote of fennel and pernod too strongly flavoured. Perhaps we’d have fared better with one of the meat dishes: duck confit, rump of lamb, steak tartare (though why, when the menu isn’t long, was that offered as both a starter and main course?). Sonny’s has always produced good desserts: a wobbly vanilla panna cotta with orange jelly and segments maintained standards. A refurbishment was on the cards as we went to press – perhaps it’s time to revamp the kitchen too.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009