Restaurants

Langan’s was refurbished in March 2008, but don’t panic, don’t reach for a brandy to calm your nerves – it looks pretty much the same. There’s a new wooden floor, new ceiling, new kitchen, but the same yellow-washed walls and copious paintings and photographs of Peter Langan with glass in hand. The menu is the same too, and still sports the sketch of the three founders, Michael Caine defiantly hanging on to his cigar. The combination of European brasserie classics and British comfort food means escalope of veal Holstein sits alongside grilled dover sole with parsley butter. Even the bread is decidedly old-school white and brown rolls, the butter provided in heart-stopping portions. A starter of snails with garlic butter, bacon, onions and mushrooms served in a lightly toasted brioche was well-executed, and roast duck made a hearty main course. Desserts remain as comforting as ever: treacle tart, chocolate pie and sticky toffee pudding with custard, or there’s fresh fruit salad (for the ladies, perhaps?). The £1.50 cover charge is an anachronism, and vegetables cost extra, albeit properly cooked and generous in volume. Service runs smoothly and staff coped well with a rowdy bunch of gents during our visit.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009