Restaurants

Set up by three chums – Terence Conran, chef Simon Hopkinson and the late Paul Hamlyn – Bibendum remains one of Terence Conran’s better investments. The location in the Michelin building, with its original tiles and loopy art deco stained-glass windows of bicycling Michelin men, gives it a real sense of occasion; the atmosphere is buzzy yet relaxed. Service by the mostly French staff is very smooth: professional yet welcoming. And the French-based food of current chef Matthew Harris is refined, luxurious, varied and enjoyable. Grilled scallops were delicately but richly combined with wild garlic and thyme risotto; a more classic French soup with rouille was nicely subtle. Mains include some English standards in line with Conran tradition (posh fish and chips), but Bibendum’s style seems to sit better with intricately flavoured fare such as roast pigeon with broad beans, mint and foie gras, or lamb with puy lentils and morcilla. The justly famous wine list is huge and imposing, but includes excellent bottles at £30 and under among the grand labels. Yet even without wine, you’ll find eating here comes at a hefty, and sometimes exaggerated, price.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008