Restaurants

Who would guess that the 1960s concrete monolith of the Royal Lancaster Hotel conceals this serene, authentic gem of a Thai restaurant? You’ll quickly forget the skyscraper above and the three lanes of heavy traffic below as you gaze over verdant Hyde Park from the compact, wood-panelled, flower-adorned dining room. Head chef (Ms) Nongyao Thoopchoi produces a first-rate menu that incorporates many lesser-known Thai delicacies alongside all the familiar staples. On our recent visit the kitchen was, as usual, in fine fettle, turning out precisely cooked dishes with super-fresh ingredients. Thai omelette with fresh crab meat made for a delicious start; it went well with khao krieb pak mor (dim sum-like steamed dumplings of minced pork and peanuts). Pork red curry was spot on; we also loved a sweet-sour dish of deep-fried slabs of white fish garnished with shredded chicken, oriental mushrooms and chillies. The long menu gives you plenty of excuses for repeat visits. Service is typically Thai and perfectly dignified. Prices are a little high, but that’s customary for hotel dining, and there aren’t many London restaurants producing Thai cuisine of this quality.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009