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Mantanah
 
Sunshine-yellow walls and pearly pink damask tablecloths greet your arrival to the hyperreally colourful and flavoursome world of this excellent Thai outpost – the genuine article in an otherwise drab and uninspiring suburban setting. An impressive array of dish names are winningly translated from the Thai, including ‘Cinderella’s Best Friend’ (pumpkin deep fried in coconut batter, served with plum sauce) or ‘Treasure Bag’ (a rice pastry parcel of crab and sweet potato). Though staple Thai dishes (green curry, tom yum gai) are all present and correct, you’re best advised to go off-piste and sample taste explosions such as the lemon, chilli and garlic-drenched ‘yum lanna’ salad of shredded chicken, roasted coconut and banana blossom, or chicken and pumpkin stewed in coconut milk and chilli (‘Midnight Chicken’). Vegetarians will delight at the many meat-free options, which make creative use of ingredients such as aubergine, pumpkin, nuts and tofu. On a rainy Wednesday night, a couple of the more exotic dishes were off the menu due to lack of ingredients, but the quality of food and service was otherwise very high. It’s a crying shame the place isn’t better patronised (or perhaps located).
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
Services:
Booking: Booking advisable
Child facilities: Babies and children admitted
Takeaway service: Vegetarian menu
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