Restaurants

What this diminutive restaurant lacks in floor space, it more than makes up for in other ways. Los Molinos has charm in abundance, with pretty wooden furniture and salmon-pink walls bedecked with dainty collectibles. Also ample is the long menu, which must list nearly 60 dishes something we might have cause to frown upon elsewhere, but its not a problem here. There are no fillers; lovingly rendered favourites from across Spain sit alongside less familiar offerings. There are even a couple of Mexican dishes. Most importantly, food is fresh, properly cooked and quite delicious. Extra-length ham croquettes had chunks of red pepper inside: a nice twist on the standard. A bowl of chickpeas and spinach came in a hearty, cumin-scented broth. Gambas al ajillo were plump, succulent prawns in a rich, garlicky sauce. Best of all was a revuelto of baby eels, artichokes, red peppers and mushrooms: one of the best tapas weve tried in a while. If anything, cooking at Los Molinos has improved recently, and the restaurant remains, as ever, one of the areas better dining spots.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008