Restaurants

Some people find the lack of a printed menu or wine list at La Ruga pretentious. Others find it shows a commitment to serve only fresh, seasonal, carefully-sourced and uncomplicated produce. We're in the latter camp. Half a dozen choices for each course are chalked up on boards, in Italian; then you wait for the friendly staff to explain the ingredients. Starters might include a simple rocket salad or spaghetti with prawns in a rich tomato sauce, while fish is given equal billing to meat among the mains. Roasted seabass and a swordfish steak served with a piquant lemon dipping sauce were recent standouts. Service is unhurried and the many regulars know that characterful owner Peter will simply pull up a chair for a chat if there's any delay.

Time Out Cheap Eats in London Guide 2007