Restaurants

Cambio de Tercio is one of the only genuine nueva cocina fine-dining restaurants in London. Some traditional dishes appear on the menu (garlic prawns, patatas bravas, squid with aïoli), but mostly these are left to sister tapas restaurant Tendido Cero across the road . Best instead to explore starters such as grilled red mullet fillets with scallop, artichoke, basil and pine nuts, or 12-hour caramelised oxtail with a red-wine jus, celeriac purée and foamed carrots. Move on to mains that might include sea bream with seasonal vegetables and manchego foam, or three-hour slow-cooked suckling pig with rosemary potatoes. These were all superb: meat, fish and vegetables handled exceptionally well; flavours nicely balanced (even the combination of fish and cheese in the main course). The decor is suitably spirited – black, yellow and magenta walls and big, bold Spanish canvases – but sophisticated, complemented by low lighting and crsip white tablecloths. The restaurant is a wine destination too; the formidable all-Spanish list offers hundreds of choices covering many regions and budgets.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009