Restaurants

To most Londoners, Spanish cooking means simple, rustic fare like meatballs, croquettes and paella. But there’s a new school of cuisine in Spain that takes the top-quality ingredients of Spanish tradition and combines them in more flamboyant ways. Cambio de Tercio is one of the few British restaurants that embraces this nueva cocina.It offers some of the best, most original Spanish food in London. Typical dishes are gazpacho, made exciting with a chunk of lobster and a scoop of cherry sorbet, or sea bream with courgette purée and a manchego cheese foam. There are some concessions to tradition too, such as king prawns in garlic and olive oil. On our visit, 12-hour slow-roasted oxtail in a red wine jus was a highlight, but nothing failed to delight. The restaurant has a rich, romantic decor set off by a sexy black tiled floor and red ceiling; it’s a place for special occasions. Sister restaurant Tendido Cero across the road serves more conventional tapas for everyday consumption. The all-Spanish wine list is an impressive tome, though prices start at a rather hefty £20.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008