Restaurants

This popular Bermondsey lunch spot began life as a canteen for the resident artists of the Delfina Studio. Although no longer run by the Delfina Studio Trust (it was taken over by a catering group in 2007), it retains its light, bright, white gallery feel, with art from the nearby Poussin Gallery. We were almost expecting someone to come round with a tray of sherry, and cubes of cheddar cheese (they didn’t, of course). Chef Maria Elia has moved on after ten years, but new chef Richard Simpson’s menu has retained the same contemporary bistro feel, right down to the chargrilled Australian fish of the day. The food is polite and pretty, although we found flavours fairly reticent – more watercolours than robust oil paintings. A velvety smooth split-pea purée didn’t really need the accompanying oily truffled pastry strips, while a starter of roast quail with goat’s cheese cream and cubed beetroot lacked seasoning and oomph. The grilled fillet of barramundi was lacklustre, leaving us pining for the more copious serving of ossobuco at the next table. Coffee was tragic.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009