Restaurants

Given the gentrified neighbourhood, it’s a bit surprising that Greenwich is so lacking in decent eateries. Aside from a seemingly flourishing batch of overstyled bars and bistros, Inside is pretty much all there is. As if to flaunt the contrast, the decor is deliberately understated in a minimalist art gallery sort of way. The food is a rigorous representation of chef-patron Guy Awford’s skills; the choice and flavour combinations at every course arouse much pained deliberation among diners. It was impossible to fault our starters, some just-crunchy, buttery English asparagus, and pappardelle of Cornish crab coated in a creamy basil and broad bean sauce. Mains were also impeccable: a Welsh lamb chump with a perfect pink interior served with a mouth-watering mint jus; and pan-fried sea bass, with moist shards of fish that worked beautifully against velvet-textured and strangely smoky aubergine, fresh green beans and a flavoursome tomato sauce. Our only quibble arose over a slightly sloppy crème brûlée that was otherwise nicely flavoured with cardamom and served with ginger shortbread. Service was unobtrusive and efficient, the crowd a lively mix of grateful gourmet locals and incomers looking for a good night out.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008