Restaurants

That Inside is a local fine-dining fave is evident by the polite familiarity between owners and patrons. The interior is tastefully done out with white and dark brown walls, bleached tablecloths, wooden floors, framed photos and abstract art; the starkness is softened by the sound of civilised conversation once the small space fills up (which it does on most nights). But it’s the food that’s the real draw: based on classical Anglo-French traditions, dishes are cooked with flair and creativity, using the freshest ingredients. The set-price dinner menu is popular and excellent value (£16.95 for two courses; £20.95 for three), but you can also opt for à la carte. Cornish mussels with coconut milk, lemongrass and chilli made for a deliciously vibrant starter. Mains of pan-fried halibut with potato purée, steamed leeks, broad beans and chive velouté, and roast duck breast with red cabbage, parsnips, bean and pancetta cassoulet, were perfectly executed and beautifully presented. This is the sort of place where the full flavour and richness of the dishes means that portion sizes are appropriately compact. Own-made bread, a good choice of wine, accomplished desserts, reasonable prices and dedicated owners keep the locals coming back.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009