Restaurants

The Garrison makes an attractive effort to strike out from gastropub clichés. The dominant colours are light greys and whites, and the style of the rickety furniture cramming the bar could be called ‘distressed rustic rococo’. It doesn’t feel at all precious, though: staff are attentive and friendly, and there’s a lively buzz of chat from tablefuls of diners and drinkers. Menus have original touches too, with rather refined, large rye-bread versions of traditional sandwiches (bacon, steak) and some gutsy combinations like excellent Orkney calf’s liver with smoked bacon, and some addictive corn dumplings. There’s also an attractive range of snacks and starters, such as a warming blue cheese and pecorino risotto, and a refreshing goat’s cheese salad with caramelised parsnip. The Garrison opens for hearty breakfasts every day of the week, and also offers its ‘Cinema’ room in the basement, available for private parties and (necessarily small-scale) film screenings. The beer range focuses on quality lagers, with only Adnams for ale-drinkers, but there’s a competitively priced wine list, with a good choice available by the glass.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009