Restaurants

The magenta light bathing the smart dark wood and white restaurant on the raised bottom floor of the Royal Lancaster Hotel didnt add to the atmosphere. Nor did the lobbyish music. But the Island was far from deserted. Little local competition, fair prices and a view of Hyde Park must account for the number of hotel guests and locals eating here after work. The friendly waiting staff were somewhat overstretched. The kitchen, visible through a widescreen hatch, acquits itself well, turning out greatest contemporary British hits but again distinguishing features are few. A pea and broad bean soup was a beautiful colour, but the truffle oil and wild mushroom cream conspired against the freshness of the spring vegetables and made it needlessly lavish. A main course of grilled calfs liver with pancetta and creamy cauliflower and spinach also erred on the rich side. Fish in an exceptionally light crisp batter with chips was a respectable rendition, but didnt set the Thames on fire. So far, good enough. Cheesecake stuck to the bottom of a bowl and, topped with undercooked rhubarb, did make a lasting impression. It remained almost untouched.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008