Restaurants

The Ledbury’s food is as adventurous and technically accomplished as that of any restaurant in London, but you’ll pay 20-30% less. That’s reason enough to join the affluent Notting Hillites who flock to this elegant gastronomic gem. Chef Brett Graham worked at the Square , whose owner Nigel Platts-Martin and head chef Philip Howard are partners here. Brett speaks the language of haute cuisine: complicated assemblies on artfully arranged plates. But this is not visual cooking; it’s aimed squarely at the palate, with flavours that are intense even when delicate, and often powerfully earthy. Every dish on the mega-bargain weekday lunch was flawless. Mains – halibut with cauliflower beignets, capers, raisins and smoked eel; and loin of Middle White pork with divine pommes purées and a veritable feast of fresh morels – clearly showed the expertise with complementary flavours. Thyme crème brûlée was a miracle of airy lightness. From the carte, a starter of celeriac, rolled in wood-ash, baked in a salt crust, and served with hazelnuts and a ‘kromeski’ of pork was technically dazzling and one of the best dishes we’ve ever eaten in London. Service was attentive, formal and friendly. The wine list shows profound knowledge of the world’s best producers. Spending £20-£30 is possible, but it’s worth pushing the boat out to complement this world-class cooking.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009