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A converted corner pub just off the Edgware Road, Occo (as in Mor-occo) is a stylish bar-restaurant run by a young guy from Tangier. Proud of his heritage, he has imported some eye-catching North African elements, not least the 12ft slab of bone-inlaid marble that forms the bar counter. The food also loosely takes its inspiration from Morocco, although recipes are subject to lots of tinkering – the menu calls it ‘modern Moroccan’. So instead of the traditional potatoes, courgette, carrots and cabbage, a vegetable tajine includes sugar snaps, baby sweetcorn and baby aubergines. Chicken d’wida sits on a mound of vermicelli rather than the expected couscous. It’s all very agreeable. If gastropubs existed in Casablanca, this is what they’d serve. We do take issue though with having to pay £2.70 each for bread and olives, when in most places charging these kind of prices they are complimentary. Note too that you need to navigate the wine list with care, as some of the Moroccan bottles are poor.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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