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When this hotel hideaway gets it right, its very, very right. Set back from Dean Street, the Soho Hotel has its own little mews enclave that reeks of exclusivity. Inside is immaculate. Boldly coloured walls are unapologetically forthright, the modern style tempered by natural textures such as the pebbles disguising supporting columns, or the rustic amphoras separating bar from restaurant. Problem is, when so much is right, any oversight is startling. Dishes can be brave, or borderline foolhardy. Fish is done best, with a sizeable range (roast halibut, seared swordfish, crab salad, line-caught sea bass, chargrilled monkfish). A smoky fennel seed and coriander seared tuna loin starter would have been an unqualified success had the serving been more generous. Robust main courses seem decent: the likes of calfs liver with pecorino and wet polenta; or braised neck of lamb with cavolo nero and roast peppers. Yet given the W1 prices, youd want more from a chicken than a potent pot roast involving a vinegary pool of artichoke, salsify and caramelised endive. The wine list is a strength, as is the lively, compact bar, where the limited space is given over to loungey seats. Such are priorities.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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I went with a group of 12 friends to the Refuel restaurant, which is the restaurant at the Soho Hotel, just off Wardour Street/Dean Street in Soho.
We arrived early for our 3pm booking and decided to have drinks in the bar area, which has a rather contemporary feel to it, although not overly comfortable seats. It took at least fifteen minutes before any member of staff asked us if we would like a drink, then when we ordered it, it took at least another twenty minutes to arrive - we weren't in a hurry, but this is just to emphasise the general poor service of the place.
Finally at 3.10 we were seated in the restaurant area and given our menus. Whether they gave us more time because there were 12 of us I do not know, but they didn't take our food orders for at least another half an hour. I ordered chilli crab cakes with aioli, which was quite tasty, although the breadcrumbs were soggy rather than crispy. My partner ordered Shaved fennel, feta, bacon and chive salad, which he said was limp and absolutely tasteless, which you wouldn't imagine, given the ingredients, but somehow they managed to make it very bland.
Ah well we thought, the main course should be fine, as we both ordered the mixed grill. This is a £20 plate and doesn't come with anything else, so should be quite substantial. When you think of mixed grill, you think quite a lot of meat. Well, when it turned up, all that was on the plate was 3 TINY bits of meat (tiny lamb chop, small piece of steak and a tiny bit of pork chop) - no garnish, very disappointing. Oh, and the meat was lukewarm at best. In fact, my crab cake starter was more substantial than the mains we had. I ordered a portion of hand cut chips with mine, just to bulk out the plate. The chips cost £4.50 and when they came, I counted the chips. Six - yes six chips folks. Admittedly, they were biggish chips, but I would have liked a proper size portion. I also asked for some mayonnaise or aioli to go with the six chips, and they said they would bring some, but didn't bother.
I wasn't even offered a dessert menu, but it didn't matter as I'd had enough of the place by then. The bill came and including drinks, it was £80 per person, which would have been good value if the standard of the food, quantity of the food and service had been anything other than poor, which it all was.
I've eaten out in top London restaurants, sadly this place is NOTHING like any of those. My advice to anyone who's in this area for lunch is AVOID this place like the plague, and go somewhere civilised (like the Ivy) where the service and food are excellent.
This place serves top-notch food and has a great ambience, although too loud to enjoy the great food in front of you. What was really bizarre was that the staff couldn't give a monkey's about you. No smile was in sight, no -one said 'How are you this evening' nor offered suggestions or explanations on any item. Just 'Are you ready to order.' I found this really strange and disappointing - I've had better service in Burger King, where I spent £3.50 Here I spent £35. What's the deal?! They would never get away with such nonsense in the States.