Restaurants

A magnet for moneyed media moguls and wealthy tourists, Benares is buoyed by celebrity chef Atul Kochhar’s TV appearances. It’s a stylish set-up – a flight of stairs leading from the discreet entrance to a seductive, dimly lit bar, furnished in black granite, opening on to a spacious dining area. A starter of beautifully presented seared scallops, coated in crunchy spices and a minted sweet grape dressing, was a triumph for fusion cooking. Crisp-fried soft-shell crab was equally impressive; deliciously sweet, its paper-thin crust was seasoned with warming cinnamon. Although tandoori chicken was succulent, mouth-wateringly garlicky, and cooked on the bone (as it should be), it needed an accompaniment to add interest and justify the high price. Roast lamb with rosemary and chickpeas was a lost cause: marred by tough meat and bland chickpeas (we couldn’t taste rosemary). Traditional Indian staples of creamy black dhal and piping hot breads are top notch, western desserts need more attention if they are to hit the sweet spot. Our white chocolate mousse was overly gelatinous and its sidekick – an uninspiring passion fruit and banana sorbet – did it no favours. Smooth-as-silk service helps make up for culinary glitches and high prices.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009