Restaurants

This spacious, bright restaurant has a first-rate corner location close to West End theatres. It offers speedy service and a mix of Cantonese and Peking-style cuisine. Deep-fried squid in chilli and salt appeared within five minutes of our order being taken. Moments later, ho fun Malaysian-style noodles, and lo hon vegetables and beancurd were served. Unfortunately, speed of service wasn’t matched by culinary flair. The thick ho fun rice noodles were decent enough, and came with a strong curry flavouring and a few fresh prawns, but the lo hon vegetables were limp and bland (the medley, including mushrooms, bamboo shoots and baby corn, tasted as if it came out of a tin). The squid was covered in a floury, undercooked batter. We also chose a more expensive dish (£13.50) of deep-fried stuffed crispy duck with yam paste. Here too, the experience was mixed. The oily yam stuffing lacked seasoning, although the crispy duck had plenty of flavour. Service on our visit was somewhat brisk and inexperienced. If you prefer mild food served quickly, Laureate fits the bill; for a more leisurely gourmet experience, head elsewhere.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008