Restaurants

In well-heeled Highgate, nobody’s expecting a basic boozer with bargain bar food, but the Bull’s inflated prices and pretentious take on traditional pub fare can feel annoying. It’s a relaxing spot, with creamy walls, artful lighting, a dark wood bar and subtle jazzy music, but service on our visit veered from intrusive to careless. A shepherd’s pie summed it all up: served in a dish that made it look like a ready-meal (which of course it wasn’t); under the piped mash lurked robustly flavoured, shredded lamb-shank. The pie was rich and satisfying, but rather too uniform without the addition of an expensive side dish of sprouting broccoli. A so-called large caesar salad with (only three) tempura prawns weighed in at a hefty £13.50. Vibrant confit of salmon with beetroot got things off to a better start than heavy butter bean fricassee. Puddings saved the day: a dense and treacly sticky toffee pudding, swimming in rich caramel sauce, and an intense Valrhona fondant pudding. Try one of the guest ales if the wine list seems too pricey.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009