Restaurants

Owned by the same folk who set up the fabulous Easton , the Princess is a winner. It has the same cool but comfortable feel, with statement wallpaper, dark wood and leather chairs. Candles and chandeliers add character. The pub’s popularity can make it a tricky choice for dinner, however; to get to the dining area on a busy Friday night we had to cross a crowded bar and make our way up a narrow iron spiral staircase. The noise of the bar followed us up, but at least we got to sit down, and the waiting staff were courteous and efficient. The menu made a tempting read; a chosen starter of salt and pepper squid was perfectly adequate, yet could have done with more kick. The sole vegetarian dish was a rather lacklustre aubergine gratin that, though nicely creamy, had too much tarragon. Ribeye steak was a better order: beautifully cooked with a pat of tomatoey butter. A side dish of purple-sprouting broccoli was too garlicky. Ten wines by the glass include a lovely Pinot Reserve Agustinos (£6.75), while beer drinkers have London Pride and Timothy Taylor’s Landlord.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008