Restaurants

Although housed in the Marriott’s sleek 32-storey tower, Curve doesn’t make the most of its location. It is stuck at street level, leaving diners not with dramatic views of the Docklands skyline, but with grounded glimpses of commuters wandering along the quayside. This sounds like a minor frustration, but it downgrades Curve from a destination restaurant to a simple seafood eaterie, and the food alone isn’t quite strong enough to warrant a special trip. That said, if you’re in the area and your expense account can swallow the bill, you’ll eat pretty well. Our crab-cake starter was small yet well-rounded, the gentle crab meat textures set off nicely by cranberries hidden in the accompanying mixed-leaf salad. A special of pan-fried red snapper was daisy-fresh (all the fish comes from nearby Billingsgate Market), and a dish of prawns cooked in coconut and coriander sauce was pricey (£17) but satisfyingly bold in its spicing. Indeed, the only discordant notes were sounded by two simpler dishes: a bland clam chowder and a horribly overcooked side of basmati rice. Good, then. But elevation by a few floors would make a world of difference.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009